Pohnpei Journey, Pohnpei, Part 1

View of the reef surrounding Pohnpei

 On Wednesday morning, March 20, 2013, we left Guam and flew on the "Island Hopper" to Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia.  Rob's engineering design project on Guam was at a successful stopping point, and now we were headed out for a week on the island where I had taught 3rd grade in 1988 - 1989. 

Pohnpei

As the island started to come into view, I couldn't believe I was seeing it with my own eyes.  It was all so familiar, but I hadn't seen the island for 25 years.  I almost felt shock that I was there.  I shiver again as I look at these photos.  They feel fresh to me, and yet a huge part of the far, almost forgotten, but oh, so important past. 

Sokehs Rock, Pohnpei, from the air.

I crowded my daughter's window seat view to soak it all in.  There was Sokehs Rock, right before my eyes!  It was real, almost touchable.  No, I was not dreaming.  It was a dream come true. 

 Remember when we first flew into Pohnpei, way back then?  In my memory it was just a shed with a metal roof, and inspection was conducted open suitcase on an old wooden table under the burning tropical sun.  Remember how hot it felt as we walked off the plane the first time, heat blast of equatorial humidity aimed right at our faces?  This girl from the Pacific Northwest thought she was going to melt into a puddle right then.

 The new airport, they opened it while we were there teaching 25 years ago.  Immigration and customs now all have modern upgrades, complete with long lines, and confusing forms to present to uniformed officials.  I was itching to get through the formalities and bust out to see what was on the other side of the airport.

 All of our luggage arrived with us.  Four 50 pound suitcases, and as many carry-ons as they'd allow.  Remember that we'd each brought two 70 pound suitcases with us back then?  Now they even have luggage carts.

 Frankie Edward, the current school principle, arrived and picked us up in an old blue Toyota van.

Frankie Edward

 Frankie is Churchill Edward's next younger brother.

Churchill and Nancy Edward

Churchill was youth pastor back then.  Frankie was working on building the church fellowship hall with Nixon when we were teachers there, just graduated from one year at SDA school, but not a Christian yet. 

Frankie had Mwar Mwars with him, beautiful traditional flowers to crown our heads.

 William and Araya were amazed when they got into the van.  There were no seatbelts!  And the steering wheel was on the "wrong side" of the car.  Which side of the van do you get in anyway?  They were surprised at how the houses looked, so old and different, so many little "run-down" shacks.

 I was amazed because it all felt so incredible to be there.  I know I am "old" now, but I felt like I was so young, just because I was where I had been when I was still in college.  The smells were so familiar.  Comfortable.  People sounded so familiar, looked so familiar.   I loved the look of the little old houses.  I was so excited to see that it all looked so much the same, frozen in time.  So very little had changed over these many years.

Downtown Kolonia, Pohnpei

Down town, main street looked much the same.  There were some new buildings, a little more congestion, and yet all in the same style as before.   The ladies walking down the streets looked the same, similar dresses and skirts, just a little different embroidery and appliqué.

Pohnpei SDA School, elementary building.  Isn't it beautiful?!

 We drove past the new Palm Terrace, just across the street from where that tiny little old one used to be.  It looked so big, likely busting with food choices.

I learned there are a few other new grocery stores in town too.  We went past a banana stand, that old water tank on the corner, and then, there it was, we drove right into the school compound. 

New School Sign in front of the high school building

 I was back.  It felt like I'd come home after so many years.  There were some new buildings, and a new sign, but it all looked so much the same, almost as if it were still 1988-1989.

 

 The photo above is of the "new" building containing the chapel, library, computer lab, housing, and more classrooms to the left.

 The elementary wing is so much the same.  I was relieved to see that they had newer desks.  Those old plywood ones must have finally disintegrated past repair.  Some classrooms still had plywood floors, some have newer surfaces.  My classroom had been on the upper left.  It was now divided into two smaller classrooms.  Walking up those same wooden steps was a sacred journey.  Emotions surged.

So much had happened to me during one 9-month school year.  So many memories, and quite a few things I had forgotten.  Some I was happy about, some I wasn't so happy about.  Teaching 18 - third graders had been really hard for me.  The whole Pohnpei experience had been hard for me.  I was swelteringly hot, overwhelmed and exhausted much of the time.  But it all did something to me, deep inside, all those experiences.  It matured me.  Solidified me.  I cried out to God when I felt like I couldn't teach another day, and then I walked into the classroom again.  He answered my early morning cries, and helped me through, that day, and the next, clear through the year.   I learned that I can depend on God to make it through hardest times. 

 

The school year ended, and I left many students and church friends behind.  I almost suffocated under that loving pile of Plumaria leis.  I'm not sure I deserved a bit of their outpouring.  I cried because I was leaving.  And I cried because I would soon be back home, the place I had longed for and dreamed of all school year.  

Melt-your-heart smiles on every face.

As the years passed, my memory dimmed some, but Pohnpei remained such a pivotal point in my experience.  It had changed the course of my life.  I was never going to be the same because I had spent a year serving in this special place.

Alfera, her great granddaughter, and I.  Story to follow.

And now I was back.  What would it be like?  Would I survive the heat?  Would anyone remember me?  Could I find any of my former students?  I was more then a little nervous on the way there, but so full of joy when I arrived.  I felt like I was at home.  

The school kids look the same, and act the same, and I love them all.

A deep thing wells up in my heart and out my eyes.  Such a sacred journey, and I got to go again.

Thank you Pohnpei.  You gave me so much.  I am forever changed. . .

. . . I wish I could give you more.